In this guide
- .177 or .22: the argument that will not die
- Head shape, and what it actually changes
- Weight, and why heavier is not automatically better
- Head size: the detail most people never check
- Cleaning pellets, which are not really pellets
- How to actually find your rifle's pellet
- Our pellet picks, and why
- Storage, which costs nothing and matters
- Frequently asked questions
Ask ten air rifle shooters which pellet is best and you will get ten answers, most of them delivered with total confidence. The honest version is less exciting: the best pellet is the one your rifle groups tightest, and the only way to know is to buy a few tins and shoot them over the same target on the same day.
That said, there is a sensible place to start. Some pellets suit hunting, some suit paper, some suit a springer, some suit a PCP. This guide covers what actually matters, what does not, and which tins we sell most of to people who shoot regularly. Everything recommended below is in stock at our Rochester shop.
.177 or .22: the argument that will not die
This is the first question everyone asks, and it matters less than people think. In the UK both calibres are limited to the same 12 ft-lb ceiling for an unlicensed air rifle, so neither is more powerful than the other. The energy is fixed. What changes is how that energy is delivered.
- .177 (4.5mm) pellets are lighter, so at the same energy they travel faster and shoot flatter. Less holdover to think about, easier to range-guess, and cheaper per tin. This is why target shooters overwhelmingly use it.
- .22 (5.5mm) pellets are heavier, so they travel slower on a more curved path but carry more momentum into the target. Popular for pest control, where energy transfer matters more than a flat trajectory.
If you shoot mostly paper, cans and targets, .177 is the easier calibre to learn with. If you shoot pests at known ranges, .22 does the job. Neither will rescue a bad shot, and both are bound by the same law, which we cover in our guide to UK air rifle law and the 12 ft-lb rule. Still choosing the rifle itself? Start with our best air rifles guide.
Head shape, and what it actually changes
This is where the real differences live, far more than the brand on the tin.
Domed, also called round nose
The default, and the right answer for most people most of the time. A domed head is the most aerodynamically stable shape at air rifle speeds, so it holds its line best in wind and drops most predictably at distance. If you are not sure what to buy, buy domed.
Pointed
Looks like it should penetrate better, and in theory it does. In practice the point makes the pellet more sensitive to wind and slightly less consistent at range, and a pointed tip is easy to damage in the tin. Plenty of people shoot them happily and they have their place, but they are not the automatic hunting upgrade the shape suggests.
Flat head, also called wadcutter
A flat face punches a clean, perfectly round hole in paper, which makes scoring unambiguous. That is the entire point of them. They shed velocity quickly, so they are a short range target pellet rather than an outdoor all-rounder.
Hollow point and heavy hunting designs
Built to expand or to carry weight into the target. These are the serious end of the range and they demand you know your distances, because a heavy pellet drops fast. Used properly they hit hard. Used carelessly they miss.
Weight, and why heavier is not automatically better
Heavier pellets tend to be less affected by wind and hold energy better downrange, which is why hunting pellets are heavy. The trade is a loopier trajectory that punishes a bad range estimate. A rough starting point for a sub-12 rifle:
- .177: around 8.0 to 8.6 grains is the sweet spot for most rifles.
- .22: around 14 to 16 grains suits most rifles. The Webley VMX at 14.66 grains sits squarely in it.
- Heavier than that (the 21 grain Bisley Magnum .22, or a 25 grain hunting pellet) is specialist. Worth trying, not worth starting with.
Springers in particular can be fussy. A recoiling spring rifle often prefers a middleweight pellet and can throw heavy ones inconsistently, while a PCP will usually shoot a wider range of weights well.
Head size: the detail most people never check
Pellets are not all 4.50mm. Manufacturers produce the same pellet in different head sizes, typically 4.50, 4.51 and 4.52mm in .177 and around 5.50 to 5.53mm in .22, because barrels vary. A pellet that is a fraction too loose loses air past it, and one that is a fraction too tight can raise pressure and hurt consistency. The Bisley Magnum in .177 is sold in 4.50, 4.51 and 4.52mm variants for exactly this reason.
Most people never need to think about it. If you have a rifle that will not group no matter what you feed it, head size is worth experimenting with before you blame the rifle.
Cleaning pellets, which are not really pellets
Felt cleaning pellets are shoot-through wads that carry fouling and lead deposits out of the bore. You fire two or three, they come out dirty, the bore is clean. It takes a minute. We stock them in .177 and .22, and there is more on this in our air rifle maintenance and pellet care guide.
How to actually find your rifle’s pellet
Ignore everything above for a moment. This is the method that works:
- Buy three or four tins of different domed pellets in a sensible weight for your calibre.
- Clean the barrel first with felt pellets, so you are not testing through last season’s fouling.
- Shoot five shot groups off a rest, same day, same conditions, at a realistic distance for how you shoot.
- Fire two or three fouling shots after switching tins before you score a group.
- Buy a lot of whichever one grouped tightest, and stop reading pellet articles.
Rifles are individual. A tin that is unremarkable in one rifle can be outstanding in another, which is the whole reason this test is worth an afternoon. Pick a still day if you can, because wind will flatter one tin and punish another for reasons that have nothing to do with the pellet.
Our pellet picks, and why
Best all-round .177: Bisley Super Field
A domed pellet at 8.64 grains, which puts it right in the middle of the useful weight band for a sub-12 .177. Domed means it is the most stable shape in wind and the most predictable at distance, and this is the tin we reach for when somebody wants one pellet that does everything reasonably well.
If you are buying your first serious tin rather than a plinking tub, start here and only move if your rifle tells you to.
Best all-round .22: Bisley Super Field
The same idea in the bigger calibre. At 14.66 grains with a 5.52mm head it sits in the weight band most .22 rifles shoot well, and the domed head keeps it honest in wind.
If you shoot .22 for general use, mixed plinking and the occasional pest, this is the default recommendation and it is rarely the wrong answer.
Best budget tin: H&N Excite Hammer .177
A domed pellet at 7.87 grains from H&N, who make some of the most respected ammunition in the sport, sold at a price that makes plinking painless. It sits just under the classic weight band, which suits lower powered and youth rifles nicely.
If you are burning through a tin a weekend teaching someone to shoot, buy these and spend the difference on more shooting.
Best for pest control: H&N Rabbit Magnum II .22
A solid cylindrical design at 25.31 grains, which is very heavy for a sub-12 rifle. That weight is the entire point: it carries momentum into the target rather than relying on speed.
It comes with a condition attached. A pellet this heavy leaves the muzzle slowly and drops fast, so it demands you know your ranges before you use it on a live quarry. Practise with it on paper first. Our pest control guide covers the wider responsibilities.
Best for paper targets: Bisley Practice .177
A flat headed wadcutter at 8.18 grains with a 4.50mm head. The flat face punches a clean round hole so scoring is unarguable, which is exactly what you want on a card at ten or twenty metres.
Do not take it outdoors expecting range. It sheds speed quickly by design. Indoors and at club distances it is the right tool.
Best lead free: Milbro Caledonian Lead Free .22
A pointed non-toxic alloy pellet for anyone who would rather not shoot or handle lead, or who shoots somewhere lead is not welcome. Being lighter than lead of the same size, it flies faster and flatter.
Be realistic about the trade. Lead free is usually a little less consistent than a good lead pellet and costs more per shot. It is the right answer when lead is the problem, not a straight upgrade.
Storage, which costs nothing and matters
Lead is soft. Pellets that rattle loose in a pocket get damaged skirts and deformed heads, and a damaged skirt is a flier. Keep them in the tin, keep the tin dry, and use a pellet pouch rather than a trouser pocket if you carry them into the field. A deformed pellet does not shoot straight no matter how good the rifle is.
Everything above is in stock. See the full pellets and ammunition range, or go straight to .177 pellets and .22 pellets. If you would rather talk it through, we are in Rochester and most of us shoot.
Our pellet picks at a glance
| Category | Our pick | Price | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
 | Best all-round .177 | Bisley Super Field Pellets (.177) | £13.95 | Add to basketView details |
 | Best all-round .22 | Bisley Super Field Pellets (.22) | £9.99 | Add to basketView details |
 | Best budget tin | Excite Hammer (.177) Pellets (500 Tin) | £6.99 | Add to basketView details |
 | Best for pest control | H&N Rabbit Magnum II (.22) | £17.95 | Add to basketView details |
 | Best for paper targets | Bisley Practice Pellets (.177) 500 Tin | £8.95 | Add to basketView details |
 | Best lead free | Milbro Caledonian Lead Free Pellets (.22) 100 Tin | £6.99 | Add to basketView details |
 | Best barrel cleaner | .177 Cleaning Pellets (100 pack) | £5.95 | Add to basketView details |
Frequently asked questions
Which pellet is best for my air rifle?
The one it groups tightest, which you can only find by testing. Buy three or four tins of domed pellets in a sensible weight for your calibre, clean the barrel, and shoot five shot groups off a rest on the same day. Rifles are individual, and a tin that shoots poorly in one can be excellent in another.
Is .22 more powerful than .177?
No. In the UK both are limited to 12 ft-lb without a licence, so the energy is the same. The .22 pellet is heavier, so it travels slower on a more curved path but carries more momentum. The .177 is lighter, faster and flatter, which makes range estimation more forgiving.
Are heavier pellets better for hunting?
Heavier pellets resist wind better and hold energy downrange, which is why hunting pellets tend to be heavy. The trade is a looping trajectory that punishes a misjudged range. A heavy pellet in the hands of someone who has not practised their ranges is worse than a middleweight one.
What is the difference between domed, pointed and flat head pellets?
Domed is the stable all-rounder and the right default. Pointed looks like it should penetrate better but is more wind sensitive and easily damaged. Flat head, or wadcutter, punches a clean round hole in paper for easy scoring but sheds speed quickly, so it suits short range target work.
Do lead free pellets shoot as well as lead?
Usually not quite, but they are close. Lead free alloy is lighter than lead, so the pellet flies faster and flatter, and some rifles are fussier with them. They are the right choice where lead is unwanted or restricted rather than a straight upgrade.
How often should I clean my air rifle barrel?
Little and often beats a deep clean once a year. A few felt cleaning pellets through the bore every few hundred shots keeps fouling down. If your groups have quietly opened up over a season, clean the barrel before you spend money on anything else.
Do I need a licence to buy air rifle pellets?
No licence, but pellets are age restricted and we sell them to over 18s only. The rifle itself is the part governed by the 12 ft-lb limit and the face to face transfer rules, which our air rifle law guide explains in full.
